Flight of Rosé ...in a Can?


     Wine in cans is having a moment right now (for the past 2 years?), thanks to millennials and a conscientious effort by the wine industry to make it more approachable. Most grocery stores carry at least one type available in the refrigerated aisle of single beverages and even liquor chain stores now are diversifying their stock to cash in on The Great Millennial Wine Binge. I really don't have my finger on the pulse of the industry, but it's hard not to notice the increased presence of pink cans everywhere lately. Pretty sure Dad would roll over in disgust if he knew what a trend it has become.

      Confession: I was curious because part of me loves road trips and is enamored by the idea of driving to the beach or a campfire in the mountains and popping one open. Or porch sitting with a can as you do here in the South. I'm under no illusions though...I recognize that I am not the intended target market for these products, and to critique them might be akin to comparing juice boxes but it seemed like a fun idea. So here we go.

Things to keep in mind:
  • Presumably, you're meant to choose them for their convenience and portability rather than what they bring to a tasting.
    • That said, aluminum can really destroy the nose (smell) you get on a lovely varietal
    • You'll miss out on the lovely pink hues and 'legs' (drips running down the side of the glass) when you don't pour it into a glass
  • A full-size 12oz (375mL) can have about 3 regular-sized glasses of wine (4oz pour) in it; one of these cans of unaltered wine might do a teetotaler in for the night (possibly not if it's a spritzer) - although the manufacturer says it's 2 glasses per can. They would have to be very generous pours for that to be true
    • A smaller 250mL can is roughly 2 regular sized glasses of wine. 
  • Alcohol by volume (ABV) - the percentage of alcohol content in the container. Some of these cans have a lower ABV because they are spritzers or diluted with soda water or other juices, and some are unadulterated wine. The only way to know is by looking at the ABV % listed next to the can size at the bottom - the higher the %, the higher the amount of alcohol therein. Naturally, this will affect your sobriety proportionately, so be mindful of what you're drinking in a specific time period.  
Pure Provence = French; 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah blend, by Mirabeau. Fruit forward, creamy smooth, notes of melon, not bubbly. Not bad but I wasn't bowled over. $19.99 for a 4-pack at Whole Foods, but I got a single (250mL). The higher price is for the volume you're purchasing, not a fine wine.

Barefoot Rosé Spritzer = Californian; blend of Grenache and Moscato Bianco grapes by Barefoot Cellars. Pomegranate & artificial raspberry overwhelm any kind of wine flavor. Carbonation level and drinking from the can complete the soda experience. Obvs not my fave but what do you want for $1.99 for a single 250mL at Publix.

Lila Rosé = French, from the Latitude Beverage Co. Comprised of a southern Rhone Red Blend, it could be any number of varietals, but typically based on Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvére. Bright, citrus flavor comes through stronger than other fruits; no bubbles and not terribly viscous. On the lighter shade of pink when poured into a glass. Every review I saw of this wine said it was dry and tasted of melons and strawberry - but every review I found commented on the packaging and how you'd like it at the beach. So...not exactly sommeliers. Decide for yourself; your chemistry is different. $10.99 for a 4-pack at Publix.

House Wine Rosé = Washington; blend of Sangiovese, Grenache, Roussanne, Mourvére, and Lemberger from Original House Wines. Crisp, bright and adult, a bit tart like a raspberry; actually tastes like wine. Probably one of the better options, despite the crude labeling and deliberate play to the mass markets. $5.99 for a 12oz. single at Kroger (pretty good deal factoring in servings).

Presto Rosé Cuveé = Italy - unknown rosé prosecco blend, from Agricola Alvise Amistani. Beautiful blush color that just glows in the right light. Highly drinkable, a smooth option with plum notes and just the right amount of bubbles. Also the smallest size at 187mL (~6oz), so one serving. $2.99 for a single or $11.99 for a 4-pack at Whole Foods.

Underwood Rosé Bubbles = Oregon; blend of unique red varietals from the Union Wine Co. This company is really driving the wine-in-a-can trend right now and is possibly the most ubiquitous brand in Atlanta at the moment. Delicious, crisp, tart and dry, it's like drinking a fizzy granny smith strawberry if that were even possible. Almost too tart for me (hard to believe) but pairs nicely with substantial meals - I would even put it with a summer bbq burger. Should also point out that the colder this is served, the better. $5.99 for a single at Whole Foods, $4.99 for the same at Kroger.

Spri Tzar Rosé Spritzer = Slovenia; unknown "grape wine" listed on the nutrition info label. Like drinking water, the alcohol content is so low it goes down a bit too easily. Possibly good for the teetotalers out there, but anyone with stronger constitution will not really go for this. Not even really worth using in sangria, sadly. Apparently, this is a fairly new import to the U.S. as the website is in progress and there isn't much data about it, only that it _is_ diluted with seltzer water (called it!) and has no added sugars with only 1.5g per serving. $6.99 for a 4-pack at Tower Liquor stores.

Rosé All Day = France; Grenache blend - no bubbles - from Biagio Cru. A lighter, peachy color with floral notes and smooth finish. Seems a bit lighter and less fruity for my palate but it is good enough for a picnic or a safe choice for a group outing. $10.99 for a 4-pack of 250 mL cans at Whole Foods; 12.5% ABV.

The Great Oregon Wine Co. Rosé = Oregon; unspecified red blend. Gorgeous rich blush color, dry notes of melon, vanilla, not too tart, not too sweet - a smooth table pick that will please several palates. Honestly, I really like this wine...out of the can. Drinking it from the can doesn't let it breathe the way it should and for a few other science-y reasons. Probably the best of the non-bubbly options here. $14.99 for a 4-pack of the 187mL single-serving cans at Whole Foods (= 1 750mL bottle of wine); 13% ABV.

Sofia Brut Rosé Mini = California; a really nice blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay from the Francis Ford Coppola Winery. Probably the driest of the bunch, the bubbles were lovely and effervescent like great champagne - not like soda. The packaging, however - is downright ridiculous. Hexagonal cardboard box surrounding four mini cans with an extra layer of cardboard over the top but under the lid, all in metallic pink too - no joke - to match the color of the wine. But the best part = the mini bendable straw stuck to each can that actually collapses down for shipping. Such a blatant marketing ploy for the millennial woman. It's insulting - yes maybe also "cute" but why must we always infantilize women? UGH. It is the closest thing to a grown-up juice box (187mL) I've seen and frankly, as one of the better wines here, I'm disappointed it would be so wasteful and gauche. I will definitely be buying this wine again, but probably in the full-size 750mL bottle. Like grown-ups do. The price is full-grown though...$19.99 at Whole Foods for a 4-pack.

Moving on...

     Rosé can be paired with almost anything white wine can, plus some more substantive, salty or oily dishes. The obvious choices are salads, fruit, cheese plates, olives, dips, etc. It's great for day drinking and light tapas and tastes like summer. Some may not realize that you can pair it with pork and beef though, as people tend to view it as light or watery and limit the pairing options. Try it with a few types of meaty fish, too - salmon is oily and heavy but goes great with a dry rosé. Pairing steak with anything other than a fine full-bodied red is sacrilege, but don't be shy about trying a rosé with a steak salad or grilled portobello and eggplant dishes at the cookout. Hope this inspires you to try something new!

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